maandag 23 maart 2009

Mexico : Baja California -Sonora -Tucson

Hello everybody,

Finally an other update about my travels. This time in Mexico. My route was San Diego-La Paz-San Jose Del Cabo -La paz - ferry to Topolobampo-Hermosillo- bordercrossing at Naco - Tombstone -Tucson.
Total cycling distance : 20 651 km or 12 906 miles.

On wednesday, february 11th, I left San Diego and crossed the border at Tujiana. Several people told me it was very dangerous in Mexico because of all the violence. This violence however is between the drugs gangs and the police. It is never targeted at the tourists.
I did take some precautions and arranged to stay with hosts from WS the first 2 days in Mexico.
There was only 1 slight problem : I misestamated the distance to the first host and so was forced to cycle in the dark but that is not hard for me because I do all the time back home.
Larry, in Puenta Nova, was very generous and made some fine pancakes for me.

The first 2 days was cycling on the pacific ocean in an area that is good for farming. I even had some rain here.
Than I had to cycle through the sonora desert. Dry and dusty, comfortable during day but cold when the sun was under. I had allmost freezing temperatures here.
On tuesday, february 17th, I crossed the 28 th parralel and there is something funny with it. Here the climate changes quickly. It remains the desert but it gets much hotter. 35 degr C or about 100 F during day and 15 C or 60 F during nigth. In a few days I changed from camping with tent and clothing in just sleeping outside with my sleeping bag. This parrallel is near the town of Guerrero Negro. There is a saltwinning factory and this is the only industry I saw in more than a week.

A bit further I had to cross the peninsula and arrived at San Ignacio, an oase in the desert. There was a river, hundreds of palmtree. I almost swum here but was not convinced if it was aloud.
Here I saw my first spanish mission in Mexico. My guide said it was old and high but most of the missions turned out to be younger and smaller than the average church back home. Some were very beautifull but all in all a bit disappointing to me. I do realise now how spoiled I am by having so many 4 or 5 centuries old houses and churches in flanders.
I did enjoy the plaza in San Ignacio. Finally some good shade. By crossing the peninsula I reached the Sea of Cortez where there are many beautifull beaches.

On friday, february 20th, I met three cycling brothers from Michigan. We cycle together for half a day till Mulege where I take a restday with Bill from WS. They go on. Andrews website is www.lifebybike.blogspot.com
We think we see the mission here but it turns out to be the catholic church. The mission is at the other side of the town.

Loreto is also a beautifull town and the former capital. You see it on the many tourists but also on the plaza, the malecon,..... I see a lot of pelicans here and I am amased but how the torpedo themself in the sea to cath some fish.

Some small villages feel more like american towns because of all the snowbirds or retired people who pass the winter here. In summertime when it gets hotmost of them go back to the USA.
On tuesday, february 24th, my day startsfine. I camped at a beach and last night I had a nice swim. In the morning a do a fine hike to a nearby hill with an scenic view. Now I am late to cycle up a long and steep hill and it is here that I have 2 flats wich is no fun to repare in the heat.
On several days I drink 5 L water and 1L of coca cola.
In Ciudad Constitucion I met Jason and 2 of his friends. I met Jason 3 months earlier in California while we were cycling near Joshua Three NP.
He tells me that the brothers just left town. They leave also but a few hours later we all meet again on the only shop in a small village. We end up camping together and here emancipation is 100%. Jesse, the only girl in the group, has a flat tyre and starts reparing it. The 6 guys sit together and talk a bit. Even the 3 bikemecanics do not help.

The next day, thursday, I cycle with the 3 brothers and it is so much fun that I will stay with them till march 5th. We cycle to La Paz where we have a restday. I stay with Laura from CS. She is so nico to cook a bit for me. A salad with cactus. Cactus is not meant to be eaten raw but cooked it is very tasteful.
Laura shows us the town and we end up in a nightclub. Something I havent done in 8 years or so.
I enjoy La Paz with its malecon, plaza where I see a performance from dancers and some live music. The second evening we go bowling and we all have a good time. I end up second only a few point less than David.
We decide to make a loop to San Jose del Cabo. It turns out to be beautifull but also very turistic. It is a famous spot for the springbreak.
We camp several times on beaches and swim in the sea. The sea of cortez is no problem but the pacific ocean has very strong currents and tides but we enjoy the power of the waves. We also camp on a patio from an abandend hotel. Because of the worldwide crisis we can see a lot of empty houses or houses who are not finished.

Since I cycled with the brothers I have a siesta everyday. We do not cycle between noon and 4pm.
It may look strange that we meet up but there is basicly only 1 road on Baja that goes north-south.
In a small village we see a zoo. I see my first ratlesnake here and do not mind it is not in the wild. I do regret to see the lion and tiger who are in cages that are too small for them.

On march 5th, we are back in La Paz and here Andrew leave us to take the ferry to Mazatlan to cycle from there directly to Texas and the east coast. I stay with David and Marc. We take the ferry to Topolobampo and will cycle north to Tucson.

First we have a good time in La Paz cooking together and also Laura is joining us.
Laura, thank you for hosting me and showing us La Paz and a good time.
To answer some questions I received : yes, mexico is cheap. I had a breakfast (eggs and bacon) with coffee for less than 3 euros. I could let my laundry do for 2,5 euros.
I eat some taco : tescado (fish) and camecones (shrimp) wich are very good and Baja is known for this.
I had also chilaquiles wich I did not like so much but the Papa rellena (a baked potato wich cheese) wich David had is superbe.

I loved the desert with the Saquaro but can understand that some people think it is boring.

From saturday, march 7th, to thursday, march 12th, we cycle from Topolobampo to Hermosillio. This is fertile land with farming but boring to me and with more traffic. We do make a side trip to San Carlos, a famous turistic spot on the sea where we have a good time swimming and drinking some tequila.

In Hermosillio we meet a journalist wich makes an article about us with a picture. It is also online on www.elimparcial.com on friday march 13th.
If anyone can copy it and send it to me I will very much appreciate this.

From Hermosillio we cycle through the mountains to Nica where we cross the border. This is a small HW where we enjoy the scenery and have no traffic. We do have some rain ans see a big storm in the distance on saturday. The next day we have to cross 4 creeks where there are no bridges. It gives us some nice pictures.

So this was Mexico.

greetings,

nico

2 opmerkingen:

Andrew Yapp zei

Nico!
Good to hear from you. You may be happy to know that I have found my chocolate chip cookies, but they aren't good bakery ones. May enjoy some quality Texas bbq for lunch. How's that spagetti? Have fun in New Mexico. Be careful and don't get bored in West Texas. If you need any route suggestions I'd be happy to help with what I can.
To many tailwinds, Andrew

Anoniem zei

Handre handre, ariba ariba, nico is the fastest biker of mejico!!! collega tom